The third challenge for the Historical Sew Monthly 2021 is ‘small is beautiful’. Little things can make a big difference to the finished look. Make something small but perfect. My entry for this challenge is an 1830s chemisette to fill in the neckline of my 1838 bodice (the sister of the 1834 dress I posted details about last year).
Just the facts:
Fabric/Materials: Approximately ½ yd of silky cotton voile from Dharma Trading.
Pattern: Adapted from Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion 1, with adjustments for fit and style.
Notions: 1 ½ yds ¼” white cotton twill tape, 1 metal hook, 1 cameo button and thread.
How historically accurate is it?: 90%. The pattern, construction methods, and fabric are all quite good. It is entirely hand sewn. The most modern element is the plastic cameo button.
Hours to complete: 19 ¾.
First worn: August 2021.
Total cost: Approximately $5 for the fabric/shipping (though it is leftover from another project), $1 for the twill tape, and $1 for the button = approximately $7.
The chemisette pattern shape was based on this fashion plate from 1836.
Without a body in it, the chemisette looks like this. It is entirely hand sewn, with small rolled hems and drawstring channels on the bottom edges.
The shoulder seams are sewn with French seams to encase the raw edges. The collar is attached with a flat felled seam for the same reason.
The gathered ruffle on the edge is hemmed on all sides with a tiny rolled hem and then whip gathered to the hemmed collar edge. I haven’t tried whip gathers before and this seemed like it would be a fun project to try them out.
On the underside of the ruffle the whip stitches are more visible.
The inspiration fashion plate doesn’t show the back of the chemisette, so I had to decide on what I wanted. After looking at extant collars and chemisettes, I settled on a rounded point that extends just under halfway down the back.
On a body, it looks like this.
The final touch is a hook and thread loop to close the collar, with the decorative cameo button on top. The plastic is obviously not correct for the 1830s, but it does have the benefit of being lightweight! I was worried that if I used a metal brooch (not that I have one, but if I did…) it would pull the collar down or out.
And that’s it! There was no rushing with this project. I took my time and enjoyed the hours of tiny hems and whip stitching.
8 thoughts on “An 1836 Chemisette (HSM #3)”
The perfect touch to your dress!
Whip gathers are rather fun to do, aren’t they?
The chemisette came out really well…
Natalie in KY
Thanks, Natalie! They were fun to execute, though I confess that I found hemming all the parts before assembling them to be a bit repetitive (even though I like hemming!). I think it’s because the ruffle was narrow and that made it slightly difficult to hold on to while sewing.
Oh…perfect proof that hand-sewing can be bliss!
What beautiful and joyous work…
–Erik in NW Ohio
Yes! Thank you!
I love this, and I LOVE your sleeves! Good motivation to finish my canezou 😉
Where did you take the photos?
Thank you! The sleeves are so silly! 🙂 Yes, I send all of the motivating thoughts your way! I had the opportunity to take these at Old Sturbridge Village while volunteering there.